Exploring the enchanting Sorrento and Amalfi Coast

After a delightful four-day stay in Lake Garda in 2023, we set our sights on the stunning region of Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast. Here's a detailed account of our adventure.

Travel and Accommodation

To simplify our trip, we booked through Wonderling Travel, a local travel agent that took care of all the details. We stayed south of Naples in the Sorrento area at the Majestic Hotel in Sant'Agnello.

This fabulous hotel boasts a rooftop Martini Bar, which is a perfect spot for sunset, especially with a Dirty Martini in hand.

Getting Around

The hotel is a 20-25 minute walk into Sorrento. We only walked once due to high traffic and narrow pavements, opting for taxis but mostly the train which is just a four minute ride.

Nearby, is a marina with a private sundeck and small beach. La Marinella in Sant'Agnello is perfect for a relaxing day by the ocean with sun-lounger waiter service, toilets, and changing rooms.

Day Trip to Capri

Our first full day was spent in Capri. Be prepared for heavy crowds and long queues for the ferry, tram, buses, taxis and chairlifts to Anacapri. Despite the crowds, the views from the highest point are spectacular. The island is divided into two municipalities: Capri and Anacapri. The tram/funicular from Marina Grande takes you to Capri's historic center, filled with bars, restaurants, and designer shops. To reach Anacapri, buses run from both Marina Grande and Capri town. We enjoyed a quiet moment at in the Dior Resort pop-up store at Il Ricco, watching super-yachts and sipping drinks. The return trip involved more queues, so patience and hydration are key.

Tips for Visiting Capri

Consider staying overnight in Capri to enjoy the island when it's less crowded. While I enjoyed ticking Capri off my bucket list, my husband found the crowds challenging.

A Tour of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello

A highlight of our trip was a round tour of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. Starting at 8:30 am with a private driver, we enjoyed a taster visit at each location. These trips are offered in abundance locally and we used Vale Tours and tickets who were excellent.

We joined a boat trip from Amalfi which showcased stunning landscapes and beautiful seaside properties. In Ravello, we lunched and visited the Belmond Hotel for drinks. Time constraints prevented us from visiting Villa Rufolo Gardens, but the panoramic views and sculptured gardens are highly recommended.

Exploring Sorrento

In Sorrento, we used the train from Sant'Agnello and enjoyed leisurely strolls through the narrow streets lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. The central square buzzes with activity, and the shaded streets offer a respite from the sun. We indulged in drinks at L’Anton which has beautiful interior design shop in the basement. We enjoyed the lunch experience at the historic restaurant O'Parrucchiano La Favorita where cannelloni was invented.

The food at Alfred in Sant'Agnello and Donna Sophia in Sorrento was delightful, and Tony’s bar in Sant’Agnello was a great spot for drinks, especially during the Euros Football Championship.

We had another pleasant meal at Foreigner's Club. This is a great place for catching sunsets too and we enjoyed their capri salad and pizza.

Weddings are common place and we saw three during our stay which was very romantic.

Dining Tips

We found some restaurants in Sorrento to have a minimum spend policy and most used QR code menus. We used cash for tipping, and worth noting that hotel tax added 30% to our drinks bill.

Recommendations for Future Visitors

For those wanting to visit Amalfi but deterred by high prices, consider staying in Sant'Agnello on the outskirts of Sorrento or Praiano. These areas offer stunning views, easy access to other towns, and a more authentic feel. Accommodation serves as a base for numerous day trips. Dress code amongst tourists in restaurants varied, with a mix of relaxed and smart attire. However the Italians always wear long trousers to dine and you’ll never catch them in flip flops.

Final Thoughts

The Amalfi Coast's popularity has surged, particularly among Americans, possibly due to Ripley on Netflix and the film "Equalizer." To avoid large crowds, it may be worth checking American and European holiday schedules before booking. And avoiding June-September months. Sorrento is filled with iconic sights like Pompeii, Vesuvius, and Capri. The colourful towns, marinas, and piazzas offer perfect spots for a glass of limoncello and leisurely evening passeggiata, a traditional stroll for socialising.

In summary, we enjoyed a memorable trip filled with breathtaking views, delicious food, and delightful experiences. The Amalfi Coast is a must-visit destination that offers something for everyone.